Chinese regional cuisines
and their impact on the American restaurant scene
China is an ancient land founded along the banks of the Yellow River, the cradle of civilization. For thousands of years the cuisines of this region have evolved and changed. Through war, natural disasters, and political upheaval it has been molded by the people and cultures that held power in these various regions. Religious views have also shaped and molded the minds of the Chinese people; this in turn has evolved their cuisine. Religious beliefs such as Daoism, Buddhism and Ayervedic principles from the sub-continent have played their part as well. Throughout China, no matter which region the food comes from the balance of the five tastes (pungent, salty, sour, bitter and sweet) unites the cuisines of China with one of many underlying themes. These taste combinations are used to heal and cleanse the body and help focus the mind. To the Chinese food is more than just a meal (Koveos).
This report will look into the cuisines of China, traditionally and as they are today. European explorers sought the spices of China for many years, and then America was discovered. The native ingredients of America soon found their way into China’s cuisine around three hundred years ago. Changing it and helping it become what it is today. The food revolution in America is now in turn being highly influenced by Chinese cuisine. We see a cycle of food culture evolving from regional cuisine to a true world cuisine.
China is divided into four main cooking styles characterized by their regional location. Northern China, often referred to as Mandarin cuisine has been heavily influenced by the creativity, ingenuity and sophistication of the imperial class that have lived in Peking (Beijing). Mongolian influence has permeated this cuisine over the centuries as their cuisine has mingled with that of the ruling class and their servants (Culinary, p54). American’s are very familiar with “Hu Hut”, a Mongolian BBQ chain (Huhot). While the ingredients are not necessarily authentic, the sauces, cooking stove and flavor combinations appeal to the American need for choices and blander flavors. This so called Mongolian cuisine is not true to the authentic food of Mongolia. It is instead an adaptation that will appeal to the masses. Marketing in America does not always consider authenticity as necessary. Similarly many higher end Chinese restaurants feature Peking duck, a traditional three course specialty traditionally served in the courts of Northern China (Culinary, p54). While this dish is the essence of the traditional cuisine it usually is not served with the pomp and circumstance of the original dish.
Southern China’s cooking style is also known as Guangdong or Cantonese. It is known for its succulent and differing flavors. The Cantonese cuisine is the one most commonly known to westerners (Culinary, p55). Rice is the main grain of this region. The growing season is so long that there are two rice harvests per year. From the many tea rooms of this region Dim Sum was born. While many Chinese restaurants have appetizers that reflect one or two aspects of Dim Sum, the best place to truly see Dim Sum is at Dim Sum restaurant. These fantastic eateries are abuzz with ladies pushing small carts laden with plates of steaming dumplings, potstickers, boa, taro biscuits, and many more bite-size treats. Some of the bigger houses offer over one hundred varieties during the day’s meal. With char shu pork and smoked duck coming out closer to the noon meal hours. They are full of small side tables and large round tables with Lazy Susans centered in the middle of the rooms. Large families sit around the tables and vie for the treats, chopsticks blazing and tea pouring, the din of conversation fills the hall. I have been to several exceptional; Dim Sum houses, in Portland, Oregon; Vancouver, B.C. But the best one was in China town in Toronto, Ontario. Four stories high with ornate balconies and I was one of the few non Asians eating there. You could see through a giant fish tank into the kitchen. They served one hundred fifty types of Dim Sum over the course of the day. A majority of all the mom and pop Chinese restaurants in America are heavily influenced by the Cantonese cooking style. Broccoli Beef, Sweet and Sour Chicken, Happy Family are some of just a few of the many stir-fried dishes available.
The Shanghai cooking style is dominant is the eastern region of China. This style relies heavily on soy sauce, sugar, and ginger. This region is known as the “Land of fish and rice”. They are typified by light and delicate flavors. Common cooking methods include stir-fry, red cooking, pickling and curing. Some of the common ingredients in the region consist of: fish, livestock, chickens, pigs, duck, rice, wheat, beans, melons, gourds, squashes, leafy greens, peaches, plums and grapes, quite a wonderful bounty indeed. The region is also famous for a few specialty ingredients: Shaoxing wine (yellow grain wine), Chinkiang vinegar (Black dipping vinegar) and Jinhua ham (smoky cured ham) (Culinary p56).
Inland, at the base of the Tibetan plateau lies the western region where the Sichuan cooking style is dominant. This cooking style relies heavily on highly seasoned dishes, hot, sour and oily food combinations. Besides abundant freshwater fish in the cuisine, it is the region where the most cattle and pigs and raised and eaten (Culinary, p 56).
These four main regions are further subdivided into smaller more distinct regions. The cuisines of these individual regions reflect the local geography, flora and fauna. These cuisine styles are heavily influenced by deep tradition, local ingredients and seasons.
Anhui cuisine (Hui Cai for short), comprises the specialties of South Anhui, Yanjiang and Huai Bei. The highly distinctive characteristic of Anhui cuisine lies not only in the elaborate choices of cooking materials but also in the strict control of cooking process. High up on the menu are stewed soft shell turtle with ham, Huangshan braised pigeon, steamed stone frog, steamed rock partridge, stewed fish belly in brown sauce, bamboo shoots cooked with sausage and dried mushroom. Not many of these dishes have reached the American shores.
Fujian cuisine emphasizes seafood, river fish, and shrimp. The Fujian coastal area produces one hundred- sixty seven varieties of fish and ninety kinds of turtles and shellfish. It also produces edible bird's nest, cuttlefish, and sturgeon. These special products are all used in Fujian cuisine. The most characteristic aspect of Fujian cuisine is that its dishes are served in soup. Bak Kut is a regional favorite. This is a pork rib soup with spices, herbs, garlic, braised belly of pork, oyster omelets and noodles cooked with bacon and shrimp broth. It is typically garnished with squid, jumbo shrimp and bean sprouts (H.F. Ullman, p60). Many of these exotic ingredients have started showing up in the top end Chinese influenced restaurant in New York, San Francisco and Chicago.
Guangdong cuisine is unique among the many Chinese cuisines. Its raw materials, cooking methods, and flavorings all differ from the other cuisines. The most characteristic cooking methods are cooking in salt, cooking in wine, baking in a pan, and shallow frying. It is at the heart of Cantonese cuisine. Guangdong has influenced American-Chinese food more than most as a majority of the immigrants that helped build the railroads across America were from this region. In China, too, it enjoys great prestige among the eight great traditions of Chinese cuisine, and Cantonese chefs are highly sought after throughout the country. Classic Cantonese sauces are light, mellow and perhaps bland compared to the thicker, darker, and richer sauces of other Chinese cuisines (Eddakath).
Hunan cuisine (Also known as Xiang cai), is characterized by its hot and sour flavor, fresh aroma, greasiness, deep color, and the prominence of the main flavor in each dish. It consists of regional cuisines from the Xiangjiang River Valley, the Tongting Lake region, and the western mountainous area. Hunan cuisine stresses a pungent flavor, and dishes made of cured products also make an important contribution to Hunan food. Some say it is one of China's most highly seasoned regional cuisines. Key factors of this cuisine consist of the following: the first is they need be made with skillful use of cleaver or kitchen knife; the second is they must have delicious taste, and a third is that they have beautiful visual appearance. “With over four thousand dishes (at least three hundred of those being famous). One such is Smoked Pork with Dried long Beans” (Koepnick).
Shandong cuisine was created during the Yuan Dynasty. It gradually spread to north China, Beijing, Tianjin, northeast China, and the palace where it influenced the imperial food. The Shandong cuisine comprises mainly eastern Shandong and Jinan dishes. Shandong cuisine is characterized by quick frying, stir- frying, braising, and deep fat frying. Its dishes are crisp, tender, delicious, and greasy with salty and some sweet and sour flavors. Its main condiment is salt, but it also uses salted fermented soybeans and soy sauce. One of the formal dishes created for the royalty is 'Eight Immortals Crossing Sea teasing Arhats' - This is a starter before a celebration feast. It is luxurious and traditionally uses as its eight main ingredients: fin, sea pumpkin, abalone, asparagus, prawns and ham. The stock is flavored with fish's swimming bladder and fish bones. These symbolize the eight immortals and the Arhats [Buddhist saints] as symbolized by the inclusion of chicken breast (Travel).
Sichuan cuisine consists of popular dishes eaten by common people and characterized by pungent, hot, strange, and salty flavors. Although Sichuan cuisine has only a short history, it has affected and even replaced more sumptuous dishes. The hot pepper was introduced into China from South America around the end of the 17th century (As recently as 200 years ago, there were no hot dishes in Sichuan cuisine). Once the chili pepper came to Sichuan, it became a favored food flavoring. “some Sichuan dishes, like velvet shark’s fin, braised bear’s paw, crisp duck roasted with camphor and tea, sea cucumber with pungent flavor, minced chicken with hollyhock, boiled pork with mashed garlic, dry – fried carp, and boiled Chinese cabbage have kept their traditional flavors.” Sichuan cuisine also has many delicious snacks and desserts, such as Bangbang chicken, chicken with sesame paste, lantern shadow beef, husband and wife’s pork lung slices, steamed beef, noodles with chili sauce, and rice dumplings stuffed with sesame paste (China Internet). Once again we see many familiar names of food now common in the American food basket and several that the American diner might never even dare to try.
Zhejiang cuisine (Zhe Cai for short) is one of the eight famous culinary schools in China. Comprising the specialties of Hangzhou, Ningbo and Shaoxing in Zhejiang Province regarded as "land of fish and rice". Zhejiang cuisine, not greasy, wins its reputation for freshness, tenderness, softness, and smoothness of its dishes with mellow fragrance. Hangzhou cuisine is the most famous one among the three. Zhejiang cuisine specializes in quick-frying, stir-frying, deep-frying, simmering and steaming, obtaining the natural flavor and taste. Special care is taken in the cooking process to make the food fresh, crispy and tender. Zhejiang cuisine is best represented by Hangzhou dishes, including Hangzhou roast chicken (commonly known as Beggar's chicken), Dongpo pork, west lake fish in vinegar sauce and Songsao Shredded Fishsoup (China Daily, Zhejiang). Specialty ingredients receiving a place of honor in the title of the dish is not new to Chinese cuisine, but it is a more modern practice on the American menu.
Jiangsu cuisine (Su Cai for short) is very famous in the Asian world for its distinctive style and taste. Jiangsu Province has a rich variety of ingredients available for cooking. Jiangsu cuisine has the characteristics of strictly selected ingredients, exquisite workmanship, elegant shape, and rich culture traits. Due to using the methods of stewing, braising, quick-frying, warming-up, stir-frying, wine sauce pickling and adding some sugar as condiments, Jiangsu dishes taste fresh, light and mellow. Jiangsu dishes can be classified into that of Suzhou-Wuxi style and Zhenjiang-Yangzhou style. The feature of Suzhou-style dishes is their natural flavor in original stock and a mixture of salty and sweet taste. The characteristics of Zhenjiang-Yangzhou style food are best described by the saying that "the soup is so clear that you can see the bottom of the bowl and the sauce is so thick that it turns creamy white"(China Daily, Jiangsu).
While many of the dishes above may be recognized or not; whether from popular regions or the more obscure, it shows how far the Chinese cuisine phenomenon has penetrated into American cuisine and culture. One must realize that the since each region has thousands of dishes one would never be able to learn them all. The best way to learn the cuisine in a general since is to understand the basic precepts of flavor combinations and the use of season local ingredients. One must also have a basic understanding of the basic ingredients.
The sad part of the American-Chinese food connection is that a majority of those who review, write about and claim to be authorities on Chinese food more than often have inaccurate information on what they claim to be experts on. From regions, recipes, ingredients, many of the so called ‘facts’ that appear in magazines and books are incorrect. The Chinese culture and cuisine is complex and contains thousands of recipes for each region. It is improbable that anyone could be touted as a master of the cuisine (Yin-Fei Lo).
Chinese restaurants in America have changed in many ways over the last half century. The most noticeable is the restricted use of MSG (Monosodium Glutamate or Dashi-no-moto). This salt based glutamic acid was a staple of early Chinese restaurants. Many Americans have adverse reactions to this non digestible salt and the wise Chinese cook has found alternate sources for flavor and stopped using the extracted MSG product. While studies have shown that MSG may not be the culprit the public still has its doubts (Goldberg).
The two most consumed Chinese dishes in America are probably the two most misunderstood. Chop suey and General Tso’s Chicken. Chop suey is an almost mythical dish. Some stories claim that is what invented in San Francisco by Chinese immigrant Li Shu-fan in 1964, as a utilization of leftover ingredients cooked in a wok to feed a late night crowd. Other sources site Chinese cookbooks dating as far back as 1938. No matter when it was invented it has adapted to fit its audience (Newman). Chop Suey is found on almost every Chinese menu in America. It is sold at grocery store kiosks and from street vendors. Major companies package it and it is sold in grocery stores. This dish, no matter how authentically Chinese it is or is not has permeated the American culture and is here to stay.
General Tso’s Chicken, my favorite, is the standard that I judge Chinese restaurants by. If it is good, not to sweet with tender chunks of chicken that are lightly breaded then I will try other items on the menu. This dish is said to have its origins back in the 1920’s. Madam Tso a descendant of the heroic general lived in the Hunan region and commemorated the dish in memory of “The meat eating general” (Chang). This dish too is found on most every Chinese restaurant menu. It is offered at diners and delis, in grocery stores and in the frozen food section of your local grocer.
As the food network and celebrity chefs rise in popularity in America so does the love of food and it authentic origins. More and more ‘foodies’ are looking past the generic menu of the traditional Chinese restaurant next door in search of what is true Chinese food. With open trade we can now get more authentic ingredients than ever before. And most are extremely inexpensive. For a chef this is an exciting time. Why? You may ask.
Chinese food embraces the utilization of the whole: The whole animal, the whole vegetable, or fruit. The recipes and the culture embrace the philosophy of no waste. With no waste and the use of the less expensive items from animals and the cheaper items in the produce world it is evident that Chinese food has the potential to make the chef a lot of profit while providing the customer with a satisfying meal full of balanced flavors. And now more than ever there is a customer base willing to try the new Chinese fusion menu.
If you really look at the values of Chinese food: Local, seasonal, fresh; mixed with a dash of the five flavors and the balance and harmony of traditional flavor pairings. Then it begins to sound like the current rising trend in American culinary circles.
So I propose that authentic Chinese food in America will use local, seasonal ingredients from this region. Imagine hot and sour, salty and sweet, sour and pungent using classical Chinese sauces with Hudson Valley products.
Works Cited
Chang, Irving Beilin. “General Tso - The Mystery Man.” Flavor & Fortune 1996: 5-6. Print. Issue 3
China Daily. “Jiangsu Cuisine.” Living in China. www.chinadaily.com.cn, 2010. Web. 22 Nov. 2010.
- - -. “Zhejiang Cuisine.” Living in China. www.chinadaily.com.cn, 2010. Web. 22 Nov. 2010.
China Internet Information Center. “Sichuan Cuisine.” China.org. www.china.org.cn, 2009. Web. 22 Nov. 2010.
Culinary Institute of America. The Professional Chef 8th Edition. Hoboken: Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2006. Print.
Eddakath. “Guangdong Province & Delicious Cantonese Cuisine.” www.travelpod.com. TravelPod.com,, 2010. Web. 22 Nov. 2010.
Goldberg, Ivan K. “Super Science: Monosodium Glutamate & Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.” Flavor & Fortune Sept. 1994: 10-12. Print. Issue 1
HuHot Mongolian Grills LLC. “About us.” HuHot Mongolian Grill. www.huhot.com, 2010. Web. 19 Nov. 2010.
Koepnick, Adeline Shun P. “Hunan Cuisine Grandma’s Way.” Flavor & Fortune: n. pag. Print.
Koveos, Eva. “Five Tastes - Many Impacts.” Flavor & Fortune Apr. 1998: 15. Print. issue 5, Institute for the Advancement of the Science and Art of Chinese Cuisine
Newman, Jacqueline M. “Chop Suey.” Fortune & Flavor 2004: 10,13-14, and 29. Print. Issue 11
Travel China Guide. “Eight Cuisines of China - Shandong & Guangdong.” TravelChinaGuide.com. www.travelchinaguide.com, 2010. Web. 22 Nov. 2010.
Yin-Fei Lo, Eileen. “What is Not Chinese Food.” Flavor & Fortune Sept. 1998: 13-14. Print. Issue 3
