Fernand and Mado Point
Prepared and presented by
Shawn Dickensheets and Christian Bagby
BACKGROUND – FERNAND POINT
Fernand Point was born in Louhans France in 1897. Both of Point’s parents were accomplished Cordon Bleu chefs in their own right and the family ran a buffet restaurant at the train station in Louhans. Point lived and worked in the kitchens since the age of 10. He trained at several classic locations such as the restaurant Foyot, and the Hotel Royal d' Evian (Point, 14).
When Fernand returned to work at the family restaurant, the owner of the train station refused to promote the eatery so Auguste Point, Fernand’s dad, decided to pack up the business and move to Vienne. It was there that the family bought a small restaurant. When Auguste retired, Fernand took over and La Pyramide was born, which was named after the ancient Roman Pyramid that still stands in the center of Vienne. Fernand was 26 and ready to set the culinary world on its side (Point, 14)
Over time Fernand would slowly remodel the small restaurant into his ideal spot, adding a second floor and manicured gardens. By bringing in the very best china, glassware, wine and food, Fernand Point settled for nothing but the best to create a grand experience for his guests (Point, 17).
La Pyramide received its first two Michelin stars in 1926; only three years after Fernand Point took over the family business. Six years later, The Michelin Guide created a new category for three stars and awarded this to La Pyramide (La Rédaction).
Fernand knew the rigors of kitchen life. He knew the dedication required to achieve not just good food, but what it took to achieve great food. Chef Point would rise before dawn and place all of his orders for the day’s service with his local purveyors. He then would eat a feast for breakfast along with a magnum of champagne. Sometimes he would eat three whole chickens for breakfast! In between inspecting his staff and preparing the menu for the day with his wife and the other chefs in the kitchen, Fernand would relax in his garden for a shave and more champagne and then perhaps go to town for lunch, sometimes at two or three of his local favorite spots. (Point, 26-27).
His kitchen brigade would start from scratch every day to preserve the freshness of the season. At the end of the day Chef Point would go through the kitchen’s coolers and take stock of what remained so that he could place his orders in the morning. Fernand would labor over his dishes to ensure their perfection, some of which he worked on for up to seven years to perfect. One of his most famous dishes is the Gateau Marjolaine (Point, 26-29).
This was a key point in culinary history. Imagine, Escoffier was still living, Fernand Point was perfecting his art and Paul Bocusé was growing up under the shadow of the master.
MADO POINT
Marie-Louise, or “Mado”, Point came into the picture when she married Fernand Point in 1930. She was formerly a hair dresser in Vienne, France and would go to La Pyramid every month with her parents, which is how she met Fernand (Chelminski).
It was said that Mado was perfect for Fernand because she was “charming, elegant, and efficient” (Hanes). Fernand was the chef, but Mado did pretty much everything else. She acted as maitre d’hotel, she would supervise the service, she kept all the books, paid the bills, and she attended to all other details including hand-writing the menu on a daily basis. Mado also would taste every new dish to make sure it was good enough to be served (Wellman).
WORLD EVENTS
The Great Depression
In France the depression was not as bad as in the U.S. but it still had its effects: unemployment and civil unrest were common throughout the country (Rasmussen). A decision by France after World War I to return to the gold standard with an undervalued franc led to trade surpluses and substantial gold inflows. The expansionary effect of these deficits, however, was counteracted somewhat by a legislated reduction in the French workweek from 46 to 40 hours—a change that raised costs and depressed production. It was during this time in the 30’s that Adolf Hitler, Benito Mussolini and Joseph Stalin began to take footholds in their perspective countries do to the effects of the world wide depression. This would later set the stage for World War II (Romer)
So for Fernand, we can surmise that his costs went up during this period, but when we look at his guest list in the golden book we can safely say that business was still good for La Pyramide.
World War II
The occupation of France was a terrible time. The Germans occupied much of France, and it came to pass that they showed up in a town near Lyon called, Vienne. It was here that the Nazi officers tried to dine at La Pyramid, having heard of its renowned food and reputation. Fernand Point made in plain that he would not serve them. First he closed lunch and then dinner. He stayed closed for the remainder of the war until France was liberated. When France was finally liberated, the door opened and it was business as usual. U.S. General Dwight D. Eisenhower was among the first guests to dine there after the war (Point, 75).
Modern Transportation
The train and car had made their appearance many years earlier in France. And Fernand used this to his advantage. He could source products that were grown nearby and have them delivered quickly compared to in the past, thus preserving their quality (Point, 26-27).
Comparative US Food Culture
At the same time that Fernand Point was perfecting his Nouvelle Cuisine, America was just in its birth of discovering its food identity. The Fannie Farmer and Joy of Cooking cookbooks were gaining ground, Pepsi and Jell-O had just entered the market, Karo syrup was introduced to the commercial market, canned tuna and Oreo cookies as well, Wonder Bread and Wheaties, and Betty Crocker cake mix and T.V. Dinners were just a few of the hundreds of items that were being developed in the U.S. (Oliver).
How different it was in Vienne with Chef Fernand Point!
PHILOSOPHY
(Point, 5-180)
Regarding food: Fernand Point regarded food as it should be: as a gift to be used in season with all the full values of its flavor and nutrition intact. Fernand believed in local produce, fish, dairy, and meats of all kinds. He dealt exclusively with local producers except for the occasional specialty item. His cooks would start each day with a blank slate, an empty prep table and only nature’s bounty to spur on their creative juices. What resulted was magical. Chef Point would often spend years perfecting a dish adjusting the seasonings or accompaniments so the dish was in perfect harmony. “Point believed that great cuisine is instinctive. While a strong base in the core fundamentals is absolutely essential, it is ultimately the senses; SMELL, TASTE, SIGHT, and FEEL that tell the chef when a dish is great and not merely adequate” (Point, 8). His wife Mado would join him in these tasting and flavor exercises and as a team they created food perfection.
Fernand Point’s notebook contained many of his quotes regarding his belief and philosophy about food. Here are a few (Point, 51-63):
“Great cuisine is not static.”
“The duty of a good cusinier is to transmit to the next generation everything he has learned and experienced.”
“As far as cuisine is concerned, one must read everything, see everything, try everything, observe everything, in order to retain, in the end, just a little bit.”
“I’m not hard to please. I’m content with the best.”
“Fernand Point’s Fiftieth Birthday Dinner Menu
On Feb 25, 1947 He prepared this menu for his friends.
Parfiats de Foie Gras Fernand
Paté Chauds De Bécasse
Les Mousse de Truites du Rhone au Coulis D’écrevisse
Cardons aux Truffes
Piéce de Boeuf a la Royale
Les Chauds-Froids de Chapon De Bresse Truffés
Le Fromage De Saint-Marcellin
Sorbets au Citron
Corbielle De Fruits
Dom Perignon, Château Grillet 1945, Hospice de Beaune, Cuvee Brunet 1937.
During the Dessert, they were witnesses to an extraordinary event – Fernand Point rose and contrary to his custom, made a speech. But it was only to praise his wife: “Without whom I could never have succeeded in making a reputation in my chosen vocation,” and to honor her for her tact and her intelligence. Then with a wink toward his staff, he concluded: “Good government always consists in decentralization and the separation of powers.” (Point, 49)
Sample Recipes
“Parfait de Foie Gras Fernand
(Perfect Foie Gras Fernand)
Remove the sinews from a foie gras and soak it in cold water. Sponge it off and place it in a marinade consisting of port wine, brandy (preferably Armagnac), salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. After twenty four hours remove the foie gras from the marinade, insert truffles in the center, and wrap it tightly in a thin cloth. Gently melt some chicken fat but do not allow it to heat up. Coat the outside of the wrapped foie gras thoroughly with the melted chicken fat and place it in an ovenproof dish. Cover the dish, place it in a bain-marie, and cook it in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Remove the foie gras, unwrap it and reform it into its natural shape. Serve it with a very good port wine jelly”. (Point, 84)
“Croustades de Rognons Guy Thivard
(Croustade of Kidneys Guy Thivard)
Guy Thivard is the competent and dynamic young chef who was responsible for the cuisine at La Pyramide since the death of Paul Mercier.
Cut two veal kidneys into quarters, season and brown quickly in a frying pan with very hot butter. Add a handful of chopped fresh morels, sprinkle lightly with flour and deglaze the liquid in the pan with some Madeira wine and truffle juice. Add two ladlefuls of veal stock, one ladleful of cream, and reduce. Add some butter to the sauce and correct the seasoning. Serve in a puff pastry case along with a julienne of truffles”. (Point, 135)
Regarding people: Fernand was not biased as to who ate at La Pyramide. From local food lovers to higher class people such as Dwight D. Eisenhower, the Chief of Police, Kings, Dukes, Emperors, etc. everyone was welcome (Point, 75). Fernand Point was regarded not only as “the King” of food by his peers, but he was well known for his gracious attitude, both toward his staff and his customers. He never skimped on portion size or quality and always gave the customer their money’s worth. He would eat family meals with his staff and fostered a sense of family and teamwork among his culinary brigade. He would mix the experience of the older kitchen staff with the enthusiasm of the younger ones to gain the most value from all his employees (Point, 19-58). His training we can speculate was impeccable. The renowned chefs that have emerged from La Pyramide are among the world’s top culinary masters of today.
He also believed that food is something to be shared. This story reflects that belief:
One day Fernand Point was strolling in the gardens at La Pyramide and happened upon a stranger. When Chef Point asked him why he was there he replied, “I wanted to visit here so that I could tell my friends I had been to La Pyramide.”, Fernand replied, “You have been to La Pyramide until you have dined at La Pyramide.” Chef Point then hurried the young man into the dining room and proceeded to serve a most memorable meal to the young stranger. “Now you have dined at La Pyramide!” Fernand exclaimed (Point, 21-24).
Fernand Point‘s philosophy was comprehensive. It enveloped the food he ate and purchased, it touched the lives of his culinary brigade and his customers. It reached out into the community at large and down through the ages. Use the best, give the best, treat everything with respect, and never short change yourself ("Fernand Point." Worldculinaryinstitute).
CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE INDUSTRY
Nouvelle cuisine
“La Grande Cuisine” does not wait for the client; it is the client that must wait for “La Grande Cuisine” (Point, 60-62). The term Nouvelle Cuisine had not been coined at the time he was doing it. He still saw himself serving “La Grande Cuisine”; he just did it his way.
Chef/Owner out of the kitchen
At La Pyramide things were different than they had been at other restaurants and hotels. Chef Point changed the way that chefs operate. Escoffier had set up a brigade system designed for hotels, Fernand brought a new era of chef owned restaurants where the chef would interact with his guests and where the kitchen brigade worked as a team and the chef was free to create beyond the confines of Escoffier’s written texts (Point, 17).
Progeny – Lasting influence
His culinary teaching and mentorship left a legacy of world renowned chefs that carry his torch. They include Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel, Francois Bise, Louis Outhier, and Jean and Pierre Troisgros (Point, 14).
Today many great chefs are still influenced by Fernand Point’s ideals about cuisine.
Thomas Keller, of the French Laundry requires that all his cooks read “Ma Gastronomie,” Fernand Points work detailing his thoughts, philosophy and recipes. Chef Keller even commissioned a set of high-end porcelain in honor of Fernand Point (Keller).
Influence on champagne
Fernand Point worked with his friend, Pierre Tattinger, to transform Champagne from a sweet dessert wine into a beverage that could be drunk throughout a meal (Blume).
Influence of Ingredients
Fernand Point would find a commodity and attempt to purchase all of it. The two main examples of this are the Rhone white wine Condrieu, his favorite vineyard (Schoonmaker), and the Eau De Vie Poire William produced by Columbier (“Eau de vie”).
Published works
Ma Gastronomie
Mado had collected Fernand’s work after his passing and compiled it into a presentable form now found in the above titled work. It entails Fernand Point’s brief history and the history of La Pyramide. Many recipes of chef Point’s unique style are included (Point, 5-7).
Restaurants
La Pyramide, Vienne, France
Awards
Two Michelin stars in 1926, the first to receive a third Michelin star 1933 (La Rédaction).
King’s Medal for Courage 1946 – For services during the war (Wechsberg, 212).
Renowned dishes
Gratin d’ecrivesses – This dish was considered by many of his patrons to be his finest (Wechsberg, 215).
The Fried egg
Fernand Point would ask his new employees to cook an egg for him. He would jump in when they were not doing it right and instruct them.
“Place a lump of fresh butter in a pan or egg dish and let it melt – that is, just enough for it to spread, and never, of course, to crackle or sit; open a very fresh egg onto a small plate or saucer and slide it carefully into the pan; cook it on heat so low that the white barely turns creamy, and the yolk becomes hot but remains liquid; in a separate saucepan, melt another lump of fresh butter; remove the egg onto a lightly heated serving plate; salt it and pepper it, then very gently pour this fresh, warm butter over it” – Fernand Point (“Fernand Point’s Perfect Fried Egg”.)
Gateau Marjolaine
Sole de Fernand Point
MADO POINT’S LEGACY
Fernand Point passed away in 1955. After his death, Mado took over the restaurant. Many thought that things just wouldn’t be the same, but that was a huge underestimation of Mado. She was extremely faithful to Fernand’s recipes and kept the 3 Michelin stars. She was a strong woman and exemplified this by adopting a motto saying “I shall uphold” (“Press Kit”).
With Paul Mercier as the new chef, Mado was able to keep the business running for 31 more years. She then passed away in 1986 leaving the restaurant in the hands of her adopted daughter. Mado and Fernand’s daughter then sold the restaurant. It remained closed for about a year between 1988 and 1989 due to the construction of a new hotel that was being built in commemoration of La Pyramide (Anjel).
In 1989 Chef Patrick Henriroux reopened La Pyramide. A year later, in 1990, the restaurant received a Michelin star once again and proceeded to receive a second star the year after (Anjel).
Works Cited
Ancienne Bocuse. N.d. points d’actu . Web. 13 June 2010. <http://www.pointsdactu.org/IMG/jpg/Photo_ancienne_Bocuse.jpg>.
Blume, Mary. “Pop Culture.” Food & WIne. American Express Publishing Company, Sept. 1999. Web. 12 June 2010. <http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/pop-culture>.
D, Tony. “Fernand Point - The Godfather of modern Cuisine.” chefsworld. chefsworld.net, n.d. Web. 15 June 2010. <http://www.chefsworld.net/chefs_forum3.asp?FTID=e1lU>.
De sole Fernand. N.d. Flickr.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 June 2010. <http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3290/3144213952_8dfedac44d.jpg>.
“Eau de vie de Poire William.” Maison J. Colombier. poire-colombier.com, n.d. Web. 12 June 2010. <http://www.poire-colombier.com/poire_colombier/presentation.htm>.
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“Fernand Point’s Perfect Fried Egg. Love and l’ouef.” The Delicious Life. thedeliciouslife.com, n.d. Web. 9 June 2010. <http://www.thedeliciouslife.com/fernand-points-perfect-fried-egg-recipe/>.
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La Rédaction du DL. “PORTRAIT Fernand Point, le géant magnifique.” Le Dauphiné Libéré. Ledauphine.com, n.d. Web. 10 June 2010. <http://www.ledauphine.com/fernand-point-le-geant-magnifique-@/index.jspz?chaine=16&article=178839>.
“Les pionniers de la gastronomie, Fernand Point.” L’internaute. linternaute.com, n.d. Web. 10 June 2010. <http://www.linternaute.com/sortir/sorties/resto/dossier/06/pionniers-gastronomie/01.shtml>.
Oliver, Lynne. “The food timeline.” The Food Timeline.org. foodtimeline.org, 6 June 2010. Web. 17 June 2010. <http://www.foodtimeline.org/>.
Point, F. Ma Gastronomie. Wilton: Lyceum Books, 1974. Print.
Rasmussen, Hannah. “A Student’s Guide to the Great Depression.” About.com . The New York Times Company, n.d. Web. 17 June 2010. <http://economics.about.com/od/recessions/a/greatdepression.htm>.
Romer, Christina D. Encyclopedia Britannica. Great Depression. berkeley.edu, n.d. Web. 17 June 2010. <http://elsa.berkeley.edu/~cromer/great_depression.pdf>.
Schoonmaker, Frank. “Wines of the Rhone.” Gourmet.com. Conde Nast, Dec. 1947. Web. 13 June 2010. <http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/1940s/1947/12/rhone>.
Wechsberg, Joseph, and David A. Morowitz. Trifles make perfections. New Hampshire: David R. Godine, 1999. Print.
Wellman, Jos. “Fernand Point.” Escoffier Online The Culinary Resource. escoffier.com, n.d. Web. 13 June 2010. <http://www.escoffier.com/index.php/content-categories/escoffier-and-great-chefs/historic-chefs/fernand-point>.
